Tuesday, February 26, 2008

How to add banding to a table apron


I thought I would post a brief description of the method I used to add the banding to the bottom of the demilune table.


What I didn't do:
I was considering using the router and making a curved jig to fit the table curve, but the thought of that much power at 10-14k RPM made me a bit nervous--any little glitch would quickly remove wood that I'd rather have still attached to the table apron.

Another approach I considered was using the shaper--but that would have required too much time making a jig--since I wasn't planning on making a dozen of these tables, I didn't want to invest the time making a single use jig.

So I settled on a handtool approach that worked wonderfully. Using a Tite-Mark marking gauge, I scored a line around the bottom of the apron that matched the width of the banding I was going to use.

I then set the fence on a Lie Nielsen skew block plane to cut to that line and after that it was a trouble/stress free process of planing down to the depth I wanted. It was actually kind of meditative and I was never worried about things going wrong.

If you are ever searching for a method of adding banding to a project, I would highly recommend you give this one a try.

Thursday, February 7, 2008

And still more work on the demilune...

The last bits of the demilune table are coming together. I've just started to apply the inlay to the legs. Here you can see that the holly is going to contrast nicely with walnut.
Inlaying in the table leg

The top veneer has been glued down.
The demilune table top

Still to do:

  • Veneer the playing surface side of the primary and secondary tops

  • Scratch the bead and cove into the edge of the tops

  • Hinge and attach the tops

  • Finish the inlay on the legs

  • Apply the lower bands to the table legs

  • Glue the legs to the apron

I hope to have it all wrapped up by the end of the weekend--but the toboggan races are this weekend and we're competing!